Fuschl Am See + Hallstatt, Austria – My First Solo Travel Experience

Being stationed overseas has presented some crucial life lessons. It’s taught me about the importance of adaptation, acceptance, and perhaps most crucially, independence. When my partner left rather suddenly for a 6-month deployment in the dead of winter I considered various options: get a full time job in London, move back to Denver and work there, or use this time as an opportunity for growth both personally and professionally in our home in Cambridge. I decided the latter. When else was I going to have the opportunity to discover what it is I want to do as an individual? Who am I outside of a career? When else was I truly going to learn the meaning of being alone, and the lessons that couple with it? To say I am lucky to be in this position is a bit of a stretch - I certainly wouldn’t opt to be away from someone I decided to marry for a grueling 6 months, but ultimately committing to bloom where I’m planted ended up being the best choice because I was able to finally bust through some major comfort walls, and that included traveling alone.

Technically, I’ve travelled alone a lot, but it was always to meet someone in a different location, or for photo jobs. Austria would be the first time I set out to travel for myself with no other goal except to experience it. The Salzkammergut (literally translated to “salt demesne”) area is full of lakes and mountains and has been on my bucket list since I came to England. I was caught between going somewhere I’ve been before for that sense of comfort or somewhere completely new. I’m proud of my decision to take the less settling road and discover a postcard place in real time.

Transport

Normally Salzburg would be the airport you’d want to fly into when making a visit to the Salzkammergut region, but as I was booking this trip, I quickly learned the Salzburg airport is rebuilding a runway, so there were no flights from London. Alas, I decided to fly into the next closest city, Munich, and take a 2 hour train to Salzburg. Train travel in Europe –especially in Germany and Austria – is near perfect. So I didn’t mind sitting in a comfy, clean train with the views of the Alps.

If you followed my Instagram stories, you’d know the first day upon arrival into Salzburg was a rough start. I had been a little anxious pretty much the entire day, knowing I’ve truly committed to this whole solo travel idea as my plane took off out of Stansted. I intended to rent a car from Salzburg so I could travel the Salzkammergut more freely. When I arrived in Salzburg just after 1900, the rental car place was closed. After cursing Chase Sapphire Travel Rewards for an hour over a paid international call for allowing me to book a car passed closing hours, I was stuck with public transport.

Enter lesson number one: Don’t book a car internationally with points. My mother had warned me of it afterwards but it was too late.

There are sometimes kiosks to buy transport tickets with card, but the bus itself only takes cash, so keep that in mind. I was so obviously shaken up by my sudden change of plans + a language barrier with the driver that a kind Austrian man paid for my bus fare when I couldn’t find another euro in my wallet. I cried in gratitude, and he probably thought I was insane. Regardless, a 30 min bus from Salzburg to Fuschlsee ended up being easy enough.

Enter lesson number two: People will help you if you need it. People are innately good.

Public transport ended up being perfectly fine throughout the trip, so a car rental isn’t necessary. However, it does take significantly longer than driving, so depending on how efficient you want to be with your time you may want to rent a car , just make sure it’s open when you arrive and call prior to your arrival for confirmation. Otherwise, I quite enjoyed getting to stare out the windows of each bus and train without being in a rush.

Pro tip! When possible, use the app Trainline to buy train and bus tickets. Not all routes were on there, but for the ones that were, prices ended up being much cheaper.

The B&B

When picking places to stay, it depends on your vibe. I generally gravitate towards nature-centered destinations, thus I skipped both Munich and Salzburg entirely. If you have the time, definitely check out Salzburg (because why not), but if you have limited time and want more of a getaway feel, head straight for the Salzkammergut region. I decided against staying in Hallstatt and I’m glad I did, because I not only saved money but also discovered a smaller, quaint but equally beautiful lakeside town: Fuschl Am See. It would also be the best B&B experience I’ve had yet.

I woke up the next morning to crisp, mountain air with a view of a turquoise lake – just what I was seeking – in a beautiful B&B called Haus Iro, owned and operated by the lovely Christiana and Munky (pronounced Moon-Key) in Fuschlsee. There’s something so special about feeling comfortable in a stranger’s home. They sat down with me for each breakfast on their amazing patio, which is included, and even invited me to dinner one evening where we talked about their children, growing up in Austria, traveling the world, and settling in Fuschl in their authentic Austrian B&B chalet and the wonderful people they’ve met while doing so. Solo travelers and couples – do yourself the delightful favor of staying here if you want to explore the lake district of Austria. It truly made my trip so memorable!

Itinerary

Day one: I took a bus + train to Hallstatt from Fuschl. Specifically, I bussed from Fuschl city center to Bad Ischl, then caught the train into Hallstatt. It took a total of around an hour and a half, but if you’ve got the time, definitely stop in the stunning towns on the way, including St Gilgen, St Wolfgang, and/or Bad Ischl. All are humble compared to the attention Hallstatt receives, but on my journey I could see they were equally beautiful. I only had one day, however, so I continued to press to the place I originally set out for.

If you don’t already know about Hallstatt, you’d be one of the few. This fairytale town has become quite the tourist destination over the last several years. According to my B&B host, Munky (we’ll get to his angel-self later), Hallstatt used to be an extremely poor salt mining town. Once it was discovered, it was hard to keep it a secret. In fact, China has an exact replica of the town, which could explain the immense amount of Chinese tourists that visit every year. I went here knowing the town could possibly be tainted by tourism, but I would soon discover why. It’s quite honestly the most picturesque town I’ve ever seen.

I got off the train to take a quick ferry across the lake to the town of Hallstatt. As I saw the iconic chapel on the horizon, I took a deep breath as an Australian female around my age said to me: “It really is so beautiful. This has been a bucket list item for a long time…I can’t believe I’m actually here.”

You and me both, girlfriend.

The size of Hallstatt took me by surprise. You can walk the whole town in under an hour. I was happy with my decision to make Hallstatt a day trip. The best thing you can do is wander by foot, shooting photos and stopping at the one of many lakeside cafe’s for a coffee or spritz. Pay attention to the narrow side streets for the photo ops.

East of the city center is the best view of Hallstatt you can get, and it’s probably the one you’ve seen thousands of times on social media if you search it. You’ll also know it’s the viewpoint because you’ll be competing with hundreds of tourists to get the shot (did I mention to try and visit this place off season?) But all that aside, it truly is a remarkable scene.

After a full day of walking, shooting, and taking it all in, I hopped back on the ferry and did the aforementioned transport in reverse. When visiting this region, definitely make Hallstatt a day trip.

Day two: Christiana and Munky insisted I stay in Fuschlsee and take the 11km (6 mile) hike around the entire lake. It didn’t take much convincing; I had been looking to do something active. I geared up and started the walk from the B&B. What was supposed to be a 6 mile hike ended up being close to 11 because of a few diverts, but those diverts ended up being highlights of the hike.

One was the stop for lunch at Castle Fishery about halfway around the lake. Known for fresh smoked fish and epic lake views near a castle turned 5 star hotel.
The other was this long, narrow dock meant for summer swimmers (also near the fishery). This was truly the perfect rest spot and I even had a dress to change into to cool off. Be warned, in May, this water in insanely frigid. Like, not refreshing kind of cold…like, you might be hypothermia cold. But I’m sure it’s an epic spot mid July through August.

The main aspect of Fuschel Am See I couldn’t get over was the color of the water. It seemed almost every hour the water was a different shade of turquoise or blue. I don’t know what this part of Europe does to keep its waters so clean and pure, but they’re doing something right.

Solo Travel Revelations + Tips

After I completed mile 11 I sat down in the center of Fuschlsee, ordered a Radler and reflected on what I had just done. Not only had I done this trip completely on my own, but I hiked in a foreign country I’d never been to - as a female - completely trusting my B&B hosts and those around me. I was sweaty, exhausted, yet eternally grateful for my strength to complete everything I had set out to do.

I took a train back to Munich that evening with a completely different mindset than the one I’d arrived with. Upon my approach to Austria, I was riddled with uncertainty, fear, and lack of trust in myself and those around me. What if something bad happened to me? Surely I’d crumble at the seems. What if someone mugs me? What if I look like a foolish American? What if I’m stuck and completely helpless?

None of those questions help your case, and certainly none of them accurately prepare you for the reality of solo travel, which is that most people are willing to help. Most people care about other humans. Most importantly, even if for some reason no one was helpful, you are a lot stronger and resourceful than you give yourself credit for. Your anxious brain has all the questions, but your gut has all the answers.

There’s also something so empowering about being alone in public places, sitting at a restaurant or cafe listening to everything around you. There’s no doubt that when you travel alone you notice your surroundings more; you use all 5 senses frequently. The power of noticing also innately helps you feel more connected to nature and people in a foreign place. There are so many universal languages: laughter, soft smiles, “hallo’s,” visible deep breaths…not to get all hippy dippy, but these are all ways to realize the oneness and interconnection with all humans. You’re never really alone.

If you’re waiting for someone to come with you on your next adventure, you’re backing up. If you have the means and the will power, I urge you to push yourself beyond the comfort of your space and just go. Look, I cannot tell you with certainty that it will be all the good parts of Eat, Pray, Love, in fact…I can almost guarantee you it will not be. But that is the power of uncertainty: It’s always there, no matter what. It’s what you do with its presence that determines the quality of your life.

Here are a few solo travel tips that I discovered as well as received from my followers:
- Pack lightly. I brought one backpack and any more would have been much harder on myself.
- Plan ahead. I’m all for spontaneity, but having a rough plan on what you’re going to do each day AND planning transport will help ease any stress.
- Have a plan B and C. Because it’s likely one or more of those plans will not pan out.
- Share your location on Find My Friends with family and friends so they know where you are.
- Do a lot during the day and chill at night. Aka…avoid getting drunk by yourself please.
- If you’re in a city, do a free city walking tour!
- Look up resources for solo travel! I like the subreddit r/solotravel
- Go with the flow. Let complications flow through you and you will get more out of your experience.
- Ask for help. If one person’s an ass, chances are the next one will be helpful. If you need help, keep asking. At the very least, ask for the Wifi then look into it yourself.

I hope you choose to be bold and do what scares you most. I hope you discover the world knowing there’s some bad but it’s overrun with good. I hope you find connectedness in foreign places. I hope you go.

“The best thing you can possibly do with your life is to tackle the motherfucking shit out of it.”

— Cheryl Strayed

Madeira Island, Portugal

One day, at the beginning of our England adventure, Ryan was scrolling Instagram and said, “I want to go here.” He pointed on a map to a tiny island of the coast of North Africa. To which I responded, “where the hell is that?”

That tiny little island was Madeira - Portuguese owned known for its sub-tropical climate. What we would discover this past December 2018, however, was that it was so much more than that. It’s a completely underrated island with both mountains and sea. It is home of the most epic scenery I have ever seen in my entire life and home to the best Airbnb we have ever stayed in. Thus, it’s also the result of some of the best photos I’ve ever captured.

It’s cheap. It’s beautiful. There’s direct flights from London, and it’s tame, warm weather just about all year round. If my words aren’t enough to convince you to add this place to your bucket list, allow the visuals to do so.

I’m going to let you in on a little secret, which is our Airbnb called Canto das Fontes in Ponta Do Sol, about 25 minutes from the capital city Funchal. I wish I could take credit for finding this myself, but my dear friend and near travel twin Anna beat me to it (and stayed in it one month before us). As Ryan said in his cute review on the place, we debated telling everyone about it or telling no one to ensure we can book it again. We stayed in the yurt, which is bigger and has its own facilities and kitchen. There are two other tipis on the property who share a bigger kitchen. The property is also a fruit and wild herb farm, cliffside ocean view paradise, and overall glamping magic. You can pick fresh fruit directly from the trees, swim in a natural (and very cold) infinity pool overlooking the horizon, lay in a hammock as you watch the sunset, and pick fresh herbs to use for cooking in your outdoor kitchen.

We met amazing friends in the community tipi while we built a fire under the fairy-lit roof. I took showers with the door open to see the ocean. It was nothing short of heaven and will always be sacred in our hearts. Only go if you appreciate the following:

• a compost toilet

• a very steep and narrow hike up to the property!

• cooking outdoors

• a very hippy vibe :)

A car is a must to get around the island. I highly recommend driving around the northeast part of island, namely through Seixal. We honestly didn’t get out of the car much except to stop for lunch in that area, and shoot some scenery in some of the random towns we passed through.. Some of the craziest scenery you can get from a car.

This person has his/her own winery with this view. Life goals.

As if the trip couldn’t get any better, the absolute highlight was yet to come. The first day, we drove up to Pico Do Arieriro in the middle of the day to do some hiking. With some of the most jagged rocky mountain I’ve ever seen with insanely deep valleys throughout, I was sure we had to come back again before we left.

You can do the full hike (about 3 hours one way) from Pico Do Arieiro to Pico Do Ruivo. We opted for just going halfway and back, which was enough of a booty workout for us. What you absolutely must do though, is come back to Pico Do Arieiro at sunset.

The most epic quality about Madeira is how much elevation it gains for being an island. At our Airbnb, we were at 112ft. When you drive to Pico Do Arieiro, you’re at 5,964ft in about an hour drive. This significant altitude difference makes it real easy to get above the clouds. When we discovered that, we knew we had to catch sunset on our last night. I have no more words:

There’s nothing quite like witnessing the sky meeting the earth with a fire sunset. Hands down one of our most legendary moments.

We ended our trip with a sunrise mission to Ponta de São Lourenço, a rocky cliffside on the eastern part of the island just near the airport. Highly recommend sunrise here for obvious reasons: the sun rises in the east :)

We will forever remember this place as one of the most underrated, beautiful islands we’ve seen. My Instagram (below) always has saved highlight stories for behind the scenes, and I hope you take time to visit this place next time you’re in Europe.

Where to next?

The Lake District, England

We made a trip roughly once or twice a month in 2018, but some were for weddings or seeing family, where photos weren’t a priority. It wasn’t until late October when I told Ryan and one of our favorite couples, Anna and Andrew, that if I didn’t do a nature photo getaway I was going to lose it (I’m dramatic).

I didn’t plan on blogging this trip, but the content I got ended up being one of my favorite series of photos yet. I don’t have much to write on this post, except that we glamped at the lovely Waterside House Campsite in Ullswater. The pods were not equipped, so you have to bring everything you would take camping except the tent, but it was such a stunning area right on the lake. We didn’t have much of a plan except to drive and hike, so we stopped in at the visitor center in Pooley Bridge to map out a walk and off we went. The Lake District is perfect for loose plans. It’s stunning everywhere you go, so best to take a couple days and explore. Here are some of my favorite moments. Enjoy!

Weekends like this make me feel alive. Cheers to more of that.

Dolomiti, Italy

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: I love Italy. It has my heart. The moment I land in that country I oddly feel at home, despite (unfortunately) not knowing the language. I’ve been privileged enough to explore everywhere between Bari, Naples/Almafi Coast, up through Florence, Lucca, Cinque Terre and Tuscany on multiple occasions. The Dolomites were saved for last - and you know what they say about saving the best for last.

That statement’s obviously completely subjective. The Dolomites do somewhat lack the Italian culture and have a more German influence, but alas…I’m a mountain gal. Always have been. I would take a secluded, nature surrounded hut than a penthouse in the city any freakin day. Though Italian cities are a must-see if you never have, a city is a city. But there’s something so invigorating about immersing yourself in a totally unique landscape in different countries; there’s nothing else like it. This is why Dolomiti is part of my top favorite destinations of 2018 (including Bali and Madeira), and Lauterbrunnen took number one in 2017.

We flew into Venice, rented a car and headed straight for the mountains. Renting a car is an absolute must. There’s little to no public transportation to the area! We drove about 3.5 hours to the town of Santa Cristina in the Val Gardena ski area. We switched it up from our usual Airbnb and stayed at Smart Hotel Saslong. It was cheap, clean, new, included breakfast and is conveniently located. You’re going to do a sh*t ton of driving anyway, but we were within a short drive to some of my favorite sights of the trip.

Admittedly we napped from a few Aperol Spritz’s then drove a little up the hill from our hotel to catch sunset. Real casual views.

I wish I could remember every street name and route we took, but not all Italian names stuck with me. The best thing to do is stay central (where we were) and just drive. We stumbled upon this epic sunset spot on our way to our hotel.

Day two: we woke up with the mission to see the summit of Seceda. This was by far the most legendary Dolomites scene in my opinion. Highly suggest taking the gondola all the way up then hiking around the area. Once you see it, you won’t want to leave. The most baffling part was that there were merely 20 people total in the area. This is why I suggest Alps destinations in the summer.

There’s only so many photos you can take of the same mountain, but we were in absolute awe of the place. These jagged ridges are the poster board of the Dolomites and truly are what makes this area so unique.

We spent our final day in Dolomiti making a couple hour drive to the iconic Lago Di Braies (Italian) also known as Pragser Wildsee (German). If you’re willing to make the trek, it’s definitely worth the view. That crystal blue water looked like something out of a storybook.

We then headed towards our final desired viewpoint, Val De Funes. It’s another legendary view of the Dolomites with an adorable Italian chapel in the foreground. Unfortunately, it was pouring rain and cold, so we had no visual. But if they weather is good, head there.

It was time to escape the cold and head back towards Venice. We had one more night before flying home, so we decided to pick a town on the way back to stay the night in so we didn’t have to drive 3 hours and take a flight on the same day. That’s when we found Lake Garda, a stunning lake with quaint Italian towns all alongside it. We stayed at the highly recommended Hotel Capri in Malcesine and immediately regretted not booking more nights there. The temperature was a good 20 degrees warmer, the culture much more Italian, and it was less crowded than our other way more popular option, Lake Como. Go to Lake Garda on your way out or back from Dolomiti - you won’t regret it!

A few of my favorite iPhone shots at Garda and Dolomiti!

Behind the lens

1. You pretty much HAVE to have a car in order to explore the Dolomites. The closest airports are at least a 2 hour drive.
   2. Don’t except the drool-worthy, carb-loaded, fully culture Italian cuisine in the Dolomites. It’s a healthy mix of German and Italian culture, which downgrades the food ever so slightly in my opinion. The Dolomites are really about the outdoor activities, so this wasn’t an issue for us (plus you can get your fix in places like Lake Garda!)

That’s really all I can remember. Sorry this post took so long…my currently broken external hard drive had all of my photos so I dreaded transferring them all from my phone. Regardless, the Dolomites are a must see if you’re on your way to Northern Italy. Go go go!

Where to next?

Bergen + Stavanger, Norway

Norway has been on Ryan’s radar ever since moving to England. Considering the fjords are on the list of “100 Things to See Before You Die,” I didn’t argue one bit.

Two main sights/activities we wanted to achieve: see the fjords and hike Preikestolen. So we decided to book for mid June and fly into Bergen.

We left sunny (yes, sunny) England and descended into some intense weather in Norway. Despite the turbulence and low visibility, it was still beautiful. Surrounded by water, green hills, and colorful houses, I could tell this country was special.

The moment we landed we were greeted by 40MPH winds; sideways rain straight to the face. Did I mention we went in mid June? You’re never safe from inclement weather in Scandinavia! (See my Instagram Norway highlight story for BTS).

We looked at each other with disappointment, especially because we’ve been hyping this trip up for a long time. Weather can be a maker or breaker in your travel plans, but it’s the farthest beyond your control. So, the rest of the afternoon was spent in a cozy robe in our Bergen Airbnb with hopes of tamer weather in the morning.

Hallelujah, we woke up and got just that. So, we headed to the Bergen harbor for our first of a few ferry boat rides.
As expected, the cities we stayed in are pristinely clean and remind me a lot of Switzerland. Though we didn’t spend much time in the cities itself except after our adventures, we enjoyed how pretty they were.

The plan was to take a fjord tour via fairy for around 5 hours, then catch the 2 hour scenic train at Flam Station back to Bergen. It was a long day planned, and, admittedly I wasn’t stoked. I am personally not a fan of public transport and cheesy tours, and typically like to explore on our own terms with a rental car. But I later discovered Ryan had made the right choice. It was indeed the best way to see the fjords. All these were taken from our boat. The sun even peaked through the low clouds, providing a dreamy, warm light:

This next moment was one of my all time favorites of the ride. The sun casted a shadow across half of this tiny fjord town, creating a yummy contrast. It was so peaceful to see. I would love to come back and stay in one of these towns.

The ferry dropped us off in a small town called Flam. There isn’t much there, but it was nestled in the fjord mountains right on the water. I didn’t get photos of the town because it was down pouring at that point, so we grabbed lunch at a cafe called Bakkastova Cafe which was delicious! It was a quick stop then we boarded the train at Flam Station to take a beautiful route back to Bergen.

We got home and pregamed dinner with some rose in the sunshine. Our Airbnb’s balcony was so Norwegian and so freakin cute.

The next day, we headed to Stavanger so we could hike Preikestolen, Ryan’s long time bucket list item. Here’s what we did to get there:
- Took a 5 hour fairy (that ended up being a literal cruise ship) from Bergen to Stavanger via Fjordline
- Check into Stavanger Airbnb
- Took a 1 hour fairy over to the base of Preikstolen
- Took 30 min bus ride to the trail head
The hike took us about 2 hours to get up, if I remember correctly. We are relatively in shape so to us the difficulty was easy to moderate. There were also a LOT of people. It’s one of the most touristy hikes in Norway because it’s relatively accessible, so that was the only downside. Otherwise, it’s pretty spectacular. Nothing gets your heart racing like a 2,000ft drop into a fjord. I didn’t take many photos, but here’s an idea of what it looks like at the top:

Behind the lens

1. Take weather into consideration and plan to be in Norway for more than 3 days - even in the dead of summer. That’ll give you time to adjust plans if needed. Luckily, we were able to continue our fjord tour as planned, but were met with inclement weather majority of the trip. There’s really no summer up North, so just taper your expectations and be flexible!

2. If you’re okay with boats and trains, do what we did. I don’t regret the fjord tour via fairy when we were in Bergen, nor the train home, but to take two or three more fairies to Stavanger to hike was a bit much for me (I get a little sea sick). I would’ve either just stayed in Bergen and then rented a car to explore more of the fjords, or drive to Stavanger to hike.

3. Most of the activities we did were touristy. I wish I would’ve taken more behind the scenes photos, because there were tons of people in most of the things we did, which isn’t necessarily bad. I still think this is the most hands off way to see Norway (which is what Ryan wanted), so if you’re not down to drive or put much effort into your own planning/exploring, this trip is a perfect into into Norway. Despite hiccups, this country is freakin beautiful.

4. Oh, and Scandinavian countries are pretty damn expensive. Plan to bring extra cash!

Bali, Indonesia

It is likely that during your daily Instagram scroll you've come across an image of Nusa Penida - an infamous Balinese coastline - or maybe a trendy cafe with an Instagram model holding her vegan and gluten free smoothie, complete with straw hats and modern bohemian decor. Or maybe you've seen the countless 5 bedroom villas with private pools that go for no more than $200 a night, or the infamous rice patties with dream-like light rays through the palm trees that may or may not be photoshopped or drastically enhanced...or maybe it really looks like that?

I know I have seen these images, and I would be foolish not to admit that those posts sparked my initial draw to Bali. Like many popular travel destinations I see on social media, I wanted to experience it myself. I wanted to know what that vegan smoothie tasted like, or what those villas would actually be like staying in (because lord knows I won't be staying in one of those in South Beach Miami). So, we went, thinking we knew what to expect. Little did I know that this little Indonesian island due south of the equator would give us an experience so much deeper and more rich than we'd ever imagine. 

Before I dive into this journal entry, I want you to know that the moments that were some of the most enlightening and meaningful were actually moments I didn't really capture. They were the moments of humanity; passing, fleeting interactions that would be impossible to capture in that split of a second. However, I will provide you with the eye candy that is the lush jungles and epic coastlines of Bali, all while describing why it is you should visit this place, and what you really need to pay attention to. Stay tuned until the end where I share my final thoughts. 

I know I don't do this every journal, but I figure it'd be useful to tell you how we actually got over there, financially. We used credit cards points from our travel credit card (Chase Safire Reserve - 3x the points spent on travel and dining AKA what we spend our money on anyway) to fly there via London Heathrow to Dubai to Denpasar. It was 100,000 points for both of us rountrip, which equaled to about $600 roundtrip each. We chose two cities to stay in, Canguu and Ubud. The Airbnb's were about $185-$230 a night, split between two couples the first Airbnb and three couples the second. To rent a vespa was about $10 a day. Average meals were no more than $10 per person, and taxi to and from the airport were about $20. We spent no more than $1000 total, for the both of us, on this trip. 

My initial impressions upon landing in Denpasar, Bali's capital, was strikingly similar to first landing in Mexico. Hot, humid, and chaotic with virtually no traffic laws, run-down buildings with lined laundry, and roundabouts filled with mostly vespas. Ketut (yes, like the medicine man from Eat, Pray Love, about every other man you'll meet is either a Wayan or Ketut) happily drove us to meet our two friends in Canguu. What would normally be a quick 20 minutes took about an hour with traffic, but it was hardly noticeable when you're getting a massive sensory overload. 

When picking places to stay in Bali, note that the most popular are Seminyak, Kuta, Canguu, Uluwatu (more south), and Ubud. Each have their own vibe, but generally, Seminyak and Kuta are more crowded and party-central. Canguu is much like Seminyak (about 25 minutes north of it), but a tad less party and a little more aesthetic and luxury. Uluwatu is where you go for a more laid back, beachy vibe with ocean views (we plan to go there next time), and Ubud is still touristy yet a remains more quiet, yogi and more traditional, and is nestled in the jungle up north. If you have only about 8-10 days as we did (I would not go less than that if you can help it), I would choose two destinations within the island and split it evenly. Everywhere I listed is foodie and surf central, but generally up north is where all the adventurous activities reside, so pick one of the southern cities to chill, eat a ton of healthy but delicious food, beach/surf, then head up to Ubud area for all the exploring. 

CANGUU

As we approached Canguu, buildings started to look slightly newer, and people started to look whiter and blonder. Glass windows displayed overpriced bikinis and macrame wall art. It wasn't quite as stark of a difference from downtown Cancun to a 5 Star Secrets Resort, but it was noticeable enough to realize we had definitely entered the most Westernized part of Bali. 

We met up with friends Meghan and Cole, fellow Air Force fam stationed in Japan. Enter in Airbnb number one, and we got a taste of what kind of luxury you can live with little dollars. Our own pool, open concept living room and kitchen, air conditioned bedrooms and bohemian-influenced decor. 

It is no question that the best way to get around this island is by motor bike or vespa, given you have experience driving one (seriously, if you don't, don't do it. It's wildly unsafe and the number one cause of injury and death amongst tourists). We had one per couple, and the moment we set our bags down in the Airbnb we were off exploring. I can't really describe the excitement of actually riding around the bumpy roads of this foreign place that I've dreamt of for so long. My eyes and heart were so happy that we finally made it. 

An absolute must is The Lawn. We went there the first night and again on our last. It's an epic place to watch the sunset, have a cocktail and cheap, good food. I miss this place. 

Our time in Canguu was mostly for eating, beaching and chilling, as it should be, but we did head to Pura Tanah Lot, a popular sea temple that is nested on a little island just off the coast. It's gorgeous, but really crowded. It's about a 45 ride from Canguu. 

The many fruit stands headed out there are a must. Nothing better than fresh, weird, and colorful fruits for a healthy snack!

Snakefruit!! Look for it and get it. It's so tasty. The skin looks like a snake, and you have to crack it open, but it tastes like melon with a chewy texture.

Ok, I must admit, I am the WORST at taking food photos. I would be the worst food blogger. When I go out to eat that is my time to eat. So I rarely snap photos. However, I did manage to get a few, specifically at the MUST go - Cafe Organic. A popular Instagram hub, this place was among the first of many incredible cafes we ate at. I cannot even hype up the food in Bali enough. You will be shocked at the freshness, price, quality, and how health-centered it is. I'll link all of the places we went. Let me reiterate: we did not have one bad meal the entire time we were there. Let me also note that a lot of them prioritize a vegan, vegetarian lifestyle, though meat is still available at most places. Don't let that fool you, though. Everything was divine.  

TO EAT/DRINK: CANGUU

Cafe Organic
Milk & Madu
The Lawn
Finn's - day club for music and cocktails. A little pricier for Bali but worth it in my opinion
Peloton Supershop, Canguu
La Laguna - super quirky, gypsy-inspired property perfect for dinner/lounging

With happy tummies and day partied out, it was time to head to the jungle.

UBUD

The difference in ~vibes~ from Canguu to Ubud was noticeably different. The Traditional Market and numerous temples right in the town immediately felt more Balinese, and the tourists that were there were for sure living out their inner Eat, Pray, Love, with yoga mats on their backs while journaling at the local vegan cafe. It's crowded yet somehow quieter, and the lush jungles complete with rice patties and palm trees had me already favoring this area slightly more than Canguu. The 10 degree cooler in temperatures also helped.

We headed into the main city and I was immediately inspired to capture some of the locals amongst the hustle and bustle.

In Bali, Hinduism is the most predominant religion, with Muslim closely to follow. A Balinese temple is referred to as a Pura. When visiting the temples, your legs must be covered, and menstruating women are forbidden to enter, as it is considered impure. Though many still abide by this ancient belief, many are also slowly moving away from it.

I've gotta say, when we checked into our Ubud Airbnb, I was in literal heaven. I've never been more stunned by how unique and beautiful our villa was. At just $62 per couple a night, it's hard not to be.

The next day we set out for our first adventure, which was unforgettable. We trekked a little over an hour to Nungnung Waterfall, and the drive out there was honestly the best part. It was our first real peek into local living, where we saw rice patty workers, more run-down villages, numerous women walking with loads of baskets on their head, stray dogs, children playing in the streets, people using the bathroom in the nearby creeks. It was our first peek into the poverty-stricken part of Bali. Since we were just passing through on our motor bike, I didn't get to capture much of the these locals, but you can head to my Instagram story highlights for some videos on our trek out to the waterfall. 

One major takeaway from the ride to Nungnung was how many locals depicted such contentment in seemingly harsh conditions. More on that in Final Thoughts. 

Arriving at Nungnung was magic. It's a hike down a ton of stairs (that you later take back up - killer quick workout), through lush jungle and honestly not many people at all. This is one of the lesser known waterfalls yet still very accessible from Ubud.

We took about 8432908532904 photos of this beautiful beast. But here are some of my faves:
 

We thought we got the shot, then the sun decided to glare through the mist, creating legendary, warm and dreamy light rays, so, naturally, we had to capture it.

After a day full of waterfall exploring we headed back to meet another couple who had joined us after their honeymoon. Tegalalang Rice patties (complete with a swing and Luwak Coffee) and the Ubud Monkey Forrest were on their bucket list, so that's what we set out to do over the next day.
These activities are very touristy, but it's still 100% worth seeing and not over the top. We didn't feel like a bunch of sheep being heard around and enjoyed it all thoroughly. I highly recommend going to the rice patties as early as you can, and maybe you'll be lucky enough to capture those sun rays. We didn't get to see them fully, but did benefit from less people to roam around.

TO EAT/DRINK: UBUD
LUXE Grill & Bbq - the perfect place for a last night, fancier meal. This was the food highlight of Ubud.
Melting Wok - we went here twice for lunch. More traditional Indonesian. SO GOOD!
Watercress
KAFE
Kismet - all vegan/vegetarian but seriously really, really good. They turn jackfruit into a pulled pork-like goodness. CMON!

...and many more. I'll say it again. It is very, very rare to have a bad food experience in Bali. 

Behind the lens + Final Thoughts

Here's the deal: Bali's tourism is booming, almost to a fault. It is heavily westernized because westerners (mainly Australians) are coming to the island to open businesses such as resorts, restaurants and stores. While this is beneficial in that it employs many locals, it's also a catch 22 because poor farmers are being driven to sell their land due to being unable to provide enough resources to, say, 5 star resorts. So while tourism is good for the overall economy, it's quite detrimental to those 36% who live below the poverty line. This puts the Balinese government in a tight spot, and did make us question the overall impact of our visit.

That said, we would go back to Bali in a heartbeat. We WILL go back. But simply being aware of the backend of tourism and learning about the less glamorous side is enough to be a conscious traveler. Sure, stay in the villas, as many are managed by locals (however many are not owned by them), but think about volunteering at a local charity. The coast of Bali is also some of the most trashed and polluted in the world, so participating in beach cleanups is another idea we'll consider when we go back. Stray dogs populate many of the beaches and streets, many starving. There are also several non-profits that help these dogs find homes. When we go back, we're looking in to one or more of these nonprofits and their mission, and I highly encourage you to do the same, even if it's just for a couple of hours!

10 Charities Doing Amazing Work in Bali
 

Despite the struggles of many Balinese, one thing remains certain: they are some of the most warming, friendly, grateful individuals I have ever had the pleasure of meeting. While riding through the very rural and poor villages, every human I made eye contact with smiled and waived and children played with stray dogs in the overly trashed streets, not to be bothered by any smell. Our neighbors in Ubud rented us our motor bikes, and Ryan's got a flat tire. The women took the bike from him (not letting him drive it as it was unsafe), and we followed her to the shop that we discovered to be closed. She then let us take her motor bike, rode home with her friend, and the next day they delivered our motor bike to our door all fixed up. It took us a few tries to give them money, with the exchange rate was a mere few dollars for us. This is just one testament to the Balinese. 

Our taxi driver to the airport told us that he has never left the island of Bali, despite watching Westerners take off in giant planes every single day. He's surely curious about the world out there, but will likely never know due to lack of income. But, when asked if he's happy, he said yes. He loves his family and the island, and they are grateful despite it all.

Why is it that almost every 3rd world country I've visited, the people are the most at peace with themselves and their life? The answer, I think, is the ability to be grateful for the simple. 

The Balinese, like many people who live in poor environments, are grateful for the "small" stuff because they have to be. They don't know what it's like to fly first class, or fly at all. They don't know what it's like to stay in a 5 star resort, but they don't NEED to know. The Balinese have every reason to be bitter towards the some 3 million privileged westerners that travel to their little island annually, but they're not. They live a life of gratitude for the seemingly minuscule things in life, allowing them room to be enthusiastic for the bigger things. I think we have a lot to learn from them.

Shoutout to this crew for an unforgettable adventure.

Mykonos, Greece

Coming back from a 3 week trip back to the States, I was burnt out with travel. But Ryan was set to be gone for a month and I didn’t have many plans, so my fellow Air Force wifey friend, whose hubs was also set to be gone, told me she wanted to go to Greece. 

And when someone asks if you want to go to Greece, you go to Greece. 

It’s been on my bucket list for forever, but to be honest I was hoping for a romantic getaway there with Ryan, since it’s known for wine tastings, to-die-for Mediterranean food, sea views and epic sunsets. But sometimes ya just gotta go and not wait on anybody. So that I did. 

We arrived direct from London into Mykonos at a tiny airport that was DEFINITELY on island time. Our immigration “officer” was literally wearing flip flops and a polo. I knew already I was going to love this place.

A short 10 minute drive later we arrived in what might be the dreamiest AirBnb. The terrace overlooks the water, the entrance was cobblestone with purple flowered vines, and of course, every part of the building was white with blue trim. Ours stood out just a bit with the green :) 

Peak tourist season for Greece is May-September. Apparently the best time to go is in September, according to the locals. Maybe we just lucked out with weather, but mid April was absolutely perfect. Temps in the mid 60s to low 70s and low tourism was worth not everything being open (some restaurants or beaches aren’t open yet, but it wasn’t enough to dampen the experience) 

We settled in and made our way down to the city center, just a short 10 minute walk. We experienced what would be the first of three utterly epic sunsets. The way that warm light hits those bright white buildings...UGH *kissing fingers like Italian chef* 

There’s a lot of touristy restaurants that are right on the water. They’re a little overpriced, but unlike many tourist restaurant, they’re all really good. You really can’t go wrong with Mediterranean food - it’s healthy, seafood, and delicious. We went to our Airbnb host’s restaurant called Captain's. He bartended there and it's actually one of the more highly rated restaurants in Mykonos (if you go to the images when searching this place on Google, there's a photo of him behind the bar. Great host. Great guy). We also met a guy who worked there whose dad was from Greece but GREW UP in COLORADO. Guys, the world is too small!

Three things you must do in Mykonos: street wander, shop, and rent a quad to explore the beaches. We did all of these things (and mainly just those things), and renting the quad was the highlight of the trip. You can drive on the regular roads, and it was an absolute blast once you got used to it. Ask a local where the best beaches are, but they’re all within close proximity to one another. We visited (and revisited) Ornos Beach. On your way there, don’t forget to grab the best breakfast ever at Bowl. 

The streets were some of the most pristine and beautiful cobblestones I’ve ever strolled. I’m not kidding when I say I saw people painting the white buildings more white DAILY. They care so much about the cleanliness and presentation of their town and it showed. With extremely narrow alleyways, it’s so easy to get lost, but we stumbled upon some delicious bakeries and cafe’s this way. One of them being Popolo. Take your time and just stroll. It is so gorgeous and just bliss.

Also check out these 16th century windmills on the Southwest side of town. So cool and so picturesque.

Then end your nights with a cocktail overlooking the epic sunset. A personal favorite was the one at 180 Sunset Bar. There are old castle ruins with a picture-perfect view of Mykonos, and was an absolutely epic way to end the trip. Seriously can’t wait to spend more time in this beautiful country. You absolutely cannot go wrong with the Mediterranean.

Behind the Lens
1.  The only downside to going to Greece off season is that some beaches and restaurants are not open yet. We didn't think it was a big deal, but it's something to think about! 
2.  The streets are so narrow already, so if you want to do some shopping and strolling, try to go in the earlier mornings. We went during off-peak tourist season, but locals expressed to us how crazy crowded the streets get in the summer. 
3. That's honestly all I can think of, guys! Greece is truly incredible. Go go go!

Where to next?

Jenna

Glencoe, Scotland

Alongside creating content for my own blog, I also work with the lovely Carly Rowena, who's a gem in the fitness & wellness world here in the UK and all over the world. She's been doing this whole blogging/social media/YouTube gig a heck of a lot longer than I have, so it's really cool to be able to work with and learn from her, help her create content for her pages and also capture some of my own in the process. Our last job was for Visit Britain, who needed help covering the Northwest part of Scotland. Since I'm into travel content, Carly, the agency and the people at Visit Britain left the decision up to ME on where to go. After lots of research, I landed on Glencoe, a glorious mountain escape in the Scottish Highlands. We were not disappointed with my choice (phew!) 

A short blog post for a short trip, but worthy to share.

Since I started my travel blog, I have only really travelled during the winter. This can skew our experience in places a bit, but I love getting a different perspective of a place in a less popular season. Scotland is one of those places that is equally beautiful in the winter as it is in the summer. In fact, I may prefer these scenes in the winter. The warm, brown tones of the ground contrasted with fluffy white snow was my aesthetic dream. 

Glencoe is approximately a 2.5 hour drive from Edinburgh, and a little less from Glasgow. We arrived well past dark to the cutest, warmest, coziest and most lovely AirBnb. It was a guesthouse to our wonderful host, Mary, who made our whole experience that much better. 

**If you want to stay here during the month of March or April, you can email the host, mary@bluebellcottageglencoe.co.uk with the subject jenjennalauren to get 20% off your stay!**

The best way to get around Glencoe, especially in the winter, is to rent a car and just drive. We drove about a half hour out and worked our way back in towards the town of Glencoe. I'm going to be absolutely useless with names of streets, hiking trails, etc, but everything is extremely accessible and easy to discover; We rarely looked anything up. This is a nature playground - go without much of an itinerary and just explore. 

The biggest attraction for outdoor lovers in Glencoe is most definitely the Three Sisters, the ridges amidst highest mountain in the county, Bidean Nam Bian. They're a major staple in the drive through Glencoe and will leave you speechless, especially in the winter. 

Our AirBnb was in Ballachlish, just outside of the town of Glencoe, though they might as well be one little town. There's one main grocery store, and we only ate out twice. The times we did, we weren't disappointed. 

Glencoe Cafe - delicious for breakfast or lunch
Isle of Glencoe Hotel and Leisure Centre - we ate here for dinner but they serve breakfast as well. Very delicious and an amazing view when sitting in their covered patio! 

When we left, we had only one more mission...and that was to find a highland cow. Or, as the locals say it, a highland coo. These cute creatures only really exist in the highlands, and are just a joy to look at. We almost gave up on our way out, until we saw this guy! We abruptly pulled over and disturbed traffic but so worth it. Just look at him! 

So grateful my job lands me in unexpectedly wonderful places like Glencoe. I can't wait to explore more of the Scottish Highlands, with Isle of Skye at the top of the list! 

To see the short video I made for CarlyRowena/Visit Britain:

This trip was too busy and short to really report any behind the lens moments, except that we were just rushed! If you plan on escaping to the highlands, plan to go for at least 3 full days.

Where to next?

Xx,

Jenna

Mallorca, Balearic Islands, Spain

There are lots of perks living in England, but possibly the most notable is the cheap and easy travel. When we found out we had an unexpected long weekend, we searched Sky Scanner to see where we could go for the cheapest. One of the least expensive for the particular weekend we were looking at was a place called Mallorca. Admittedly, we’d never heard of it. We saw it was one of the Balearic Islands along with Ibiza and Manorca. After doing a tiny bit of research, we decided to go. With a flight price at £30 a person, there was little to lose. 

We came in with little expectations. Although, we did expect it to be warmer than England, which we discovered it would not necessarily be the case. Luckily, we were given sun all three days which is all you can really ask for when you’re trying to get through your first England winter. 

To say the island of Mallorca is underrated is an understatement. Why we have not heard this on people’s travel lists full of Cinque Terre’s and Santorini’s is beyond me. Not only do you get clear blue waters with amazing hidden beaches and pretty port cities, you also get the mountains - full of hiking trails, biking, windy roads that lead to snowy mountain caps. The best part? It’s not a tourist trap. 

Granted, we visited in the winter. But even after doing my own research and talking to some locals, Mallorca seems to hover relatively under the radar even in the summer. 

We decided to skip staying in Palma, Mallorca’s trendy capital, and make the gorgeous mountain town of Valldemossa home base. Though much quieter than the bustling city, the pseudo Tuscany vibes, historic architecture with cobblestone streets and endless potted plants was more than worth the extra 30 minute drive. 

We stayed at quite possibly my favorite AirBnb we’ve stayed in thus far. Not only was our host incredibly accommodating, but also the apartment was a stunning modern/industrial style that was clearly designed and detailed by a professional (the host’s husband) and provided a cozy patio with epic views. 

The streets of Valldemossa were the upmost pleasant to have a morning stroll. Every home had a plethora of potted plants and flowers outside of their front doors, creating entire streets full of thriving plants and succulents, even propped on the walls. Those who know me or know my instagram can predict my level to stoke to add to my neutral + greenery aesthetic. 

The first day out exploring the island took the windiest road out to see some cliff sides, and let me tell ya, those roads are not for the faint hearted! With 1.5 hours of hairpin turns, make sure you bring your Dremamine. But the views are well worth it. In the course of that time, we saw snow-capped mountains, clear blue waters and everything in between. 

Drone shot of the roads we took up

Ryan was on a quest to find one of many gorgeous cove-beaches. We set out for one in Sa Calobra, which had towering rocks on either side of the ocean that looked like a giant natural doorway. To get to the beach - which was totally surrounded by a canyon - you had to walk through dark caves that had little natural windows that looked out to the bluest waters. Pics describe it better: 

Not much is open off season, so once we were done exploring, we headed back to grab some food from a supermarket and had dinner and wine in. On the way back, we caught a pretty epic sunset.

The next day, we decided to explore the east side of the island in search of Mallorca's lighthouse, a staple of the island for good reason. The drive is less windy and more pleasant. But first, and always, coffee. Though this trip wasn't as food-focused as far as content goes, that doesn't negate the fact that Spain's food, wine, culture and cappuccinos highly compete with Italy's, and that's saying a lot (as serious Italy fans). Be sure to have breakfast and coffee at one of the many, yes, Cappuccino's when in Spain. We visited the one in Valldemossa twice. 

The cliff sides on the east side were stunning. Be sure to pull over when you see parking lots on the way out to the lighthouse, as we found another amazing cove beach by hiking down from one of the pull-off sights. I don't have names, but if you type in Mallorca lighthouse, follow the directions out there and do your own exploring. You won't be disappointed! 

We went out in Palma, the capital and bustling city, only once. If we were there longer we definitely would have explored the city a bit more. It's a gorgeous port city with tons to do, a very young and hip culture with the trendiest bars and vegan cafes. I know how much a good travel blogger loves the words vegan and coffee shop in the same sentence. This particular cafe was invented (pretty sure) off of a Pinterest board, so naturally I had to snap a photo, despite my lack of clean hair and makeup.

Mallorca was the first place we took our new drone out to play! My hubs put this little edit together. Can't wait to incorporate more video content in the travel blog. Enjoy!

Behind the lens

1. Though lodging is about half of the price and the tourist crowds are nonexistent in the winter, I would still very much encourage visiting Mallorca in the warmer months. We were cold most of the time, and when trying to escape England's dark and miserable weather, you can imagine the frustration of not quite being able to. We basically learned that if you really want to travel somewhere warm during the winter months, skip the entire country of Europe and head to Turks and Caicos or something. 
2. DON'T FORGET ABOUT SIESTA!! Most restaurants are closed between about 2-5PM, and then a lot of markets, especially in the winter, close around 7:30PM. This requires you to plan, because if you don't you'll be very hangry!! 

Where to next?

Xx,
Jenna
 

Lake Bled, Slovenia

If someone asked, "Hey Jenna, if I wanted to escape to a country with little tourists and a lot of outdoor activity, where would I go?" I would say..."Slovenia."

This Eastern European country is inexpensive and a beaut. When we told people we were going to Lake Bled for Thanksgiving/my 25th birthday the responses ranged from "Wait, where?" to "Hm, interesting."

That's because this tiny country east of Italy is only recently on the come-up, as it became independent from Yugoslavia just 26 years ago. 

We spent our time in Lake Bled and explored around Triglov National Park, which is the main attraction of the country for good reason. If you're looking for a quiet nature-oriented getaway with lots of hiking and views, Slovenia is your place. 

With that being said, it's not a place to visit if you're looking for a bustling city with endless bars and a party atmosphere, at least in the Lake Bled area. 

Our AirBnb was one of my favorites. At a cool $60 a night, it was a trendy minimalist style with views of both the lake and mountains, and our host was the sweetest. Any host that leaves you with a local bottle of vino gets 5 stars from me. Slovenian wine, by the way, it only distributed throughout their own country, so you can't get it anywhere else! It's delicious.  

iPhone shot hehe

It's definitely recommended that you rent a car when exploring the area, as the public transportation is few and far between. There is no train between the airport and Lake Bled, so getting a car is in your best interest. It's only about a 45 minute commute. Not to mention our car was literally $12 total. Not $12 per day...Twelve. Dollars. Total. Did I mention Eastern Europe is ridiculously cheap?! 

Our first day we took a hike up Ojstrica for best views of Lake Bled. There was an insanely steep staircase to get to the top, but it was worth it. Hit this trail at sunrise or sunset. 

One of the more popular hikes, Vintgar Gorge, was unfortunately closed for the season, so we didn't get to complete it. We got a little teaser though, and from what we saw it was a beaut. Definitely check this out if you're in Slovenia anywhere between April and September. Bluest river water ever!

We then took our car and drove around Triglav National Park. Due to weather, we didn't get to explore the Julian Alps as much as we wanted to, but if you have the time and are not held back by snow flurries, I've heard the hiking is insane. It's a gorgeous national park that is not crowded and accessible by car throughout. We made multiple pitstops throughout the park and was not disappointed. Views for days! 

Ended back at Lake Bled for sunset

Our last day we explored the main castle in Bled that is built into a mountain. Lots of cool history and a preferable thing to do on a rainy day.

I can't speak much on food/restaurant suggestions as we just picked where to go based on what was open. I will say, the Slovenian locals like to have a beer any time of day. We would head to a bakery/cafe around 9AM and locals were have a Heineken along side their macchiatos. Hilarious. ...Also, you don't have much to lose trying all sorts of places with the low prices.  

Side note, you can take one of these boats to the center island of Lake Bled to tour the castle. We didn't, but it was so peaceful watching them paddle out on a crisp, rainy morning.

My 25th birthday was so peaceful and exploring this underrated country was so awesome. We can't wait to go back in the summer!

Behind the Lens

1. Our only critique of Bled and the area is that - at least in the timeframe we went (November) - there is not much to do outside of outdoor activities. The town was quite dead, so plan to really chill when you get here! 

Cinque Terre + Lucca, Italy

I have been lucky enough to visit the majestic country of Italy 3 times now, and it still remains top 3 favorite countries; If ever we can't decide where we want to go (gee, rough life right?), Italy will be our go to. The food, wine, and the culture that embodies it is truly one of a kind. Not to mention the language is beautiful and the people are so passionate - they put their soul into everything they do. 

My husband, being half Italian, has bread and wine naturally running in his veins, so he was itching to go back. I, on the other hand, though not Italian, will drop everything to spend a weekend where I can have delicious cappuccinos and pastries for breakfast, pasta for lunch and dinner, all while consuming all the aperol spritz's and red wine in sight and not feel even a little bit bad about it. 

We decided Cinque Terre would be our next target city(s) to explore. We booked a place in Riomaggiore, the second to last town of the 5 cities. 

Highly recommend choosing here between the 5 cities because we found it was the least crowded and the most fun to explore. Every little street and corner had something unique and lovely about it. 

Each city is unique in its own way. Definitely get the train that run between all of them so you can see yourself. If you have the time, you can also hike in between each one and really earn your carbs! We didn't do that this time because some of the trail was blocked off. 

We ate in Manarola at this restaurant, which has the most epic, quintessential view of the city. We spent a good 2 hours here. You can understand why:

After we explored a few cities, we wrapped up the day wandering the cliffs at sunset around Riomaggiore, which shouldn't go ignored. Be sure to look the opposite direction of the colorful cliff side houses for a different perspective. The fact that these houses can sit on this landform is remarkable. 

Since we were flying out of Pisa, we decided to leave Riomaggiore the next morning and check out a little city called Lucca. But first, cappuccinos, at the prettiest little cafe on top of the hill:

Lucca is known for its well-kept Renaissance walls that boarder the entire city center. It's a lesser known city in the Tuscany region, which is more of a reason why it should be added to your Italian itinerary. 

The tan and beige tones of this city created an inviting sense of warmth. The history, like any city in Europe, is awe-inspiring and extensive. It's small enough to walk or cycle the whole center, and you can actually find cafes and restaurants where the locals and owners barely speak English. That's when you know the food is going to be REALLY good and the experience just feels more authentic.

My best advice to see Lucca is just walk! There's a path that circles the city center, or you can get lost down the narrow streets of shops and wine bars. To catch some epic lighting, start exploring just after sunrise:

I also recommend going up Guinigi Tower. There's a garden on the roof, the inside is eerie and ancient, and there's an amazing view at the top!

If the photos don't say enough, just take my word and stop by Lucca on your way through Tuscany area, even if it's for a few hours! It was a perfect escape from the crowds and is just an all-around lovely city. I honestly wish I took more photos of the food we ate, but when those plates of gold get put in front of me, snapping a pic is the last thing I'm thinking about.

Italy remains one of my favorite European countries. If you're lucky enough to go, make sure you spend some quality time there. European culture in general, but especially Italian culture really values passion and intension behind everything that they do. In other words, don't rush! Make time to see the tourist sights but set aside a couple hours at a restaurant or a wine bar overlooking the Mediterranean. Don't get upset when your main meal doesn't come right after your Antipasta dish. Take a deep breath an sip that Chanti. 

Behind the Lens

1. It's really hot! Even in October! Be prepared to walk (on a steep incline) and drinks lots of water. A flowy dress and sneakers actually worked quite well. 
2. Again with the crowds. Be mindful of this when taking the train in between the cities. We really thought October would slow down the tourists, but turns out everyone had that idea; It was packed! I recommend doing all of your wandering early in the morning, then pick a nice restaurant to chill at for a couple hours mid-day when everyone is coming out.
3. Make reservations whenever you can.

Where to next?

Xx,

Jenna

Zurich + Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland

There are a few places that are forever sealed in my heart.

One is Breckenridge, Colorado, where Ry and I’s young love flourished, where we married, where I learned to ski and snowboard, where I’ve had some crazy college nights over a long weekend, and the place we will name our future dog after (we’ve had the name picked out for 3 years).

Another is Bend, Oregon, where we discovered a Colorado-esque mountain town that hadn’t yet been discovered by the masses. Bend is home of the best beer, ciders, brunch, and Mt. Bachelor, we were scored one of the best power days of my life. It also has a high possibility of being a place we settled post-military. 

Two more is Aspen and Telluride, Colorado. For obvious reasons.

Are you seeing a trend here? 

Places like San Diego and similar beach towns have come quite close, but the mountains ignite my soul and allow me to be my most present and most humbled-self. 

Which is why Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland and the surrounding area will be tucked away deep into my heart along with the rest of the mountain villages that make up who I am today. Perhaps it made its way towards the top of the most special places I’ve ever been. 

I know, I know. It seems like I am over-hyping it. The truth is, if you’re a mountain person, it can’t be overhyped. This is the one place you can have ridiculously high expectations for and it WILL exceed them: Impossibly high peaks coupled with dramatically low, deep valleys, luscious green rolling hills, pure white, snow-capped mountains, crisp air, and the sound of nothing but waterfalls and cow bells will leave you speechless. 

The 4 of us just kept looking at each other throughout the weekend like…what? This is a thing? This is real? Are we sure?

OK, so I think I’ve used all the words I can think of at the moment to describe how special this place is, for now. I’ll proceed to type with images.

Ryan and I met up with my long-lost high school friend Brooke and her husband Marty. We had lost contact for a couple years after college; they lived in San Francisco while we lived all around the States. They recently picked up and left Silicon Valley to move to Zurich, Switzerland, where they both got jobs and fully immersed themselves in the ex-pat life. They graciously let us use their adorable downtown Zurich apartment as home base for our endeavors, and also tagged along to Lauterbrunnen! 

Zurich is by far the cleanest city I’ve ever seen. If there’s one conclusion I’ve come to about the Swiss, it’s that they completely outdo themselves. First of all, their landscapes just put the rest of the world to shame, which I imagine is the start of their motive to be totally extra in everything else. Their trains are pristine, huge and comfortable. The chocolate literally melts when it touches your mouth. Every flower and plant is precisely trimmed, even down alleyways barely anyone sees. They are VERY proud of their flag. They are a neutral country, which is code for, “We DGAF about anyone else.” We were wondering what the Swiss military actually does, and we concluded they just fly around fighter jets for funsies. 

All jokes aside, I truly love the Swiss and their passion to make their country immaculate for their people and tourists. It works, clearly. 

Saturday morning we grabbed some food and prosecco and took a 2 hour train(s) up to Lauterbrunnen. When approaching Interlaken, the views just kept getting better and better. 

We got out of our stop in Lauterbrunnen, aka the “Valley of Waterfalls,” to admire (in awe) the tiny village immersed deeply in this giant crevasse, surrounded by waterfalls and the Alps peaking beyond them. 

Our AirBnb was literally steps from the train station and had the most peaceful views of moody clouds amidst the village, ridged mountain-sides and lush green fields.

Remember my last post when I mentioned all European cities we’ve visited thus far have their own unique architecture? Switzerland mountain towns have these adorable chalets that are perfectly cozy for a European mountain town. 

The day we got in we grabbed some food to make for dinner at one of (the only) grocery store they had and took a hike under the main waterfall in town. It was wet - therefore no photos to show - but awesome.

The next day we took the cog rail up to Kleine Scheidegg. This move was the best thing we decided to do all weekend. 

The views you see on this cog rail are unbeatable. I'll spare the adjectives:

We went through towns like Wengen (where we were originally supposed to stay) - the “biggest” town on the ride - which are literally only accessible by this little cog rail. This town was a slice of heaven.

The cog rail goes all the way up to the "Top of Europe” at the peak of Jungfrau, 13,642ft. Now, being from Colorado surrounded by 14ers, that doesn’t seem all that crazy. But because I lived at around 8,000ft in elevation in South CO, the mountains didn’t look like much. From the valley of Lauterbrunnen, we started at 2,631ft. In less than an hour cog rail ride, we quadrupled elevation, which over dramatized the peaks we saw.

The hike we proceeded to take was just below the three peaks: Junfrau, Monch, and Eiger. For the entire 8 something miles, we did not see a single person. I don't know if people just decided to take the cog, or if we got lucky, or if it’s just not a popular place to begin with, but we were stoked to be the only humans on this adventure (along with many, many cows).

Because of this, I now see the value in not always sharing a specific location online. Not that the place was extremely tough to find, but all it takes to find a gem is a little more of an adventurous spirit. Needless to say, I'm beyond glad we didn’t just stop at Interlaken. 

An insane highlight of this trip was watching a monstrous avalanche crash through the mountain's crevasse on the other side of the valley. It was louder than a jet engine and travelled so quickly through the ravine, crushing everything in its path, until it fell silent. If that wasn't a humbling reminder that Mother Nature is in charge, I don't know what is  

Ryan's stoke level=10/10. Avalanche to the right of him.

Walking through these Alps in astonishment promptly reminded me of where I get my nature spirit from in the first place: my dad. Growing up, I watched him go out on our porch on a starry night just to stare at the sky. He loves to mountain bike and hike the local trails, and him and my mom go on an annual hut trip every year. He went sunrise skinning the day of my wedding and his enthusiasm for the day was an all time high. My parents’ adventures overseas encouraged Ryan and I to book a European Alps hut trip, in fact. I am grateful their sense of wonder for nature was passed down to me, and I can't wait to see this place again.

Victoria Erickson says it best:

"When you're a mountain person, you understand the beauty and brilliance of contradiction. The way the land can be your greatest teacher. How something can be both grounding yet elevating, intoxicating yet soothing, wild yet serene, intensely primal yet patient, and cycling yet predictable within the shifts and rhythms.  
Mountains keep us on edge yet wrap us in the sensation of safety all at once. I don't know of anything sweeter or more magic inducing than that."

Behind the lens 

1. There’s one, and one only this post. And that is that Switzerland is really, effing expensive. Be prepared to pay a whole lot more than you think, but I promise you every penny is worth it.

Where to next?

Xx,
Jenna

Paris, France

I had a few preconceived notions about Paris before visiting. I had heard that Parisians are rude to tourists, especially Americans. I had heard that it's overly crowded and dirty, and that people are constantly trying to sell you knick-knacks. The only one of those that is kind of true is that last statement. Parisians were very kind to us (or indifferent, which is better than rude), the city IS crowded but not unbearable, and considering how incredibly touristy it is, it’s clean. There are lots of people trying to sell you things near the biggest tourist locations, but just like anyone it’s easy to kindly decline. 

If you're traveling to Paris from London, I HIGHLY recommend taking EuroStar. It may be more expensive than flying at times, but the experience is worth it. It goes under the ocean, you guys. Also, you can take full bottles of prosecco/whatever drink/food you fancy AND there’s a snack bar on the train too so it’s way better than traveling on a plane. 

Paris was filled with carbs and Bordeaux wine and honestly what else do you need?  The thing I love most about European cities so far is how incredibly unique each location’s building structures are. Paris was no exception. The city is romantic and filled with art and gorgeous architecture. The florals are over the top and I loved it.

A hilarious stereotype that definitely rang true - at least in our experience - is how much Parisians love their espresso and cigarettes. We were at lunch, and these two Parisians girls around my age were speaking their native tongue - presumably about birth control, I know this cause she holding her pack of birth control at the lunch table - that progressively got faster as they pounded 3 espresso shots each and a pack of Malboro’s. They didn’t even eat. No wonder how European’s stay so small. 

We stayed in an AirBnb about 10 minutes from the Eiffel Tower. Good location but more info on it down in “behind the lens.”

It is totally doable to see the major sights in one weekend, granted you don’t go inside. We were bummed not to go inside Notre Dame or the Louvre, but honestly the lines would scare away anyone who tries to avoid tourists like we do. We plan on going to see the museums, just not in August. 

But the Louvre is gorgeous from the outside...

...and Notre Dame is awe-inspiring. It is mind-blowing how incredibly intricate the sculpture work is on such an impossibly massive building. Especially for once that was built in 1163. ELEVEN SIXTY THREE, PEOPLE.

Thus, we walked, ate, drank espressos, walked some more, ate, drank a Spritz, saw some pretty sights, ate, drank wine, slept, and repeat. 

The colors are amazing in this city. The plants are even better. And a MUST see is this freaking adorable restaurant called Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole (if you fail at a French accent like me, try saying that. It’s hilarious) that happens to be one of the oldest in Paris. There’s real birds in those cages. And it’s decorated in vines. The Bordeaux is amazing. 

A must-do is go up to Montmarte near sunset (where the Sacre Coeur is). This is more of an art district, on a hill overlooking the entire city of Paris. This was one of my favorite parts of the trip. 

European Bucket List: Sip wine with an Eiffel Tower view ✔️

And of course, did you really go to Paris if you didn’t get an Eiffel Tower pic?! No. You didn’t. 

Behind the lens

1. As in London, Ryan got lost again, and I, while not contributing anything to the navigating process, got mad at him, haha. And that’s because…I was hangry. I have now learned to bring snacks because I need to eat twice as often as Ryan. If you're a small meals more often kind of person, I suggest you do the same when walking everywhere.

2. Our AirBnb had SO MUCH potential but had a lot of issues. For example, the middle of the floor had a huge speed bump in the wood floor due to water damage, which was tripped over multiple times. Be sure to communicate those issues in a private review to the owner. They can’t fix it unless they know!

3. As with any big city, the crowds can be overwhelming and have the potential to affect your experience. HIGHLY recommend traveling large cities in the fall or winter, if you’re able. This will make seeing the sights so much more pleasant.

Honestly, there wasn’t much to report as far as "messy" scenes go for this trip.

Anyway, it's true, Paris is always a good idea! 

Where to next?

Xx,

Jenna

London, United Kingdom

The fact that this magnificent city is only a 45 minute train ride from our "permanent" home is still so surreal. Ryan and I hopped on the train and got into our long-haul travel mode, only to realize it took NO time to get there. We are used to being stationed in rather remote areas in the U.S., where the cool places were at least a 2.5 hour drive. So, to say the least, we're very happy to be near a world-renowned city. Since we'll be spending a ton of weekends in London, I obviously won't blog it every time, but the first time in a city is always noteworthy.

Now, adjusting to living in a foreign country is a whole other topic. We are lucky that the native language is English, but there's a lot of other aspects to get used to. The most obvious, perhaps, is learning how to drive on the left side of the road. I curb-checked Ryan's new car multiple times while being on the right side of the car driving on the left side. The slang/lingo is another. For example: trolley=shopping cart, lorry=semi-truck, pavement=sidewalk, chips=french fries, crisps=chips, carriageway=highway, toilet/loo=restroom, and what we think is the first floor of a building is actually the ground floor? Anyway, navigating the lingo is a fun and confusing experience. 

London is such a pretty, diverse city. With how massive it is (6 airports, if that says anything) it's an incredibly clean city. Like many large European cities, there's a symbolic mix of ancient and modern buildings, representing its extensive history yet progressive agenda. This combination is something lacking from the States. The architecture is just awe-inspiring. 

We checked into our Airbnb on Friday afternoon in Covent Garden. I would highly recommend staying in or near Covent Garden because it's only a short walk to Big Ben and the London Eye, has amazing and quaint cafes and restaurants, and is only a short walk to Soho, where much of the nightlife resides. We changed and saw those main sights, grabbed dinner at what we thought was a super authentic gourmet burger joint, but turns out it was a massive chain, haha. Still good though! 
Afterwards we partied in Soho in what we later found out was most definitely the gay district (I wondered why my drink was SO EFFIN' SWEET...then again it was called the Pink Pornstar). That made the night more fun! The Brits truly know how to party and we were a little out of practice. 

Saturday morning we got brunch in literally the most beautiful patio I could've asked for. Anyone that knows me knows Ryan and I are massive brunch (food) enthusiasts, bonus points if there's breakfast cocktails, avocado and in an aesthetic location. The Dalloway Terrace inside Hotel Bloomsbury checked all the boxes. I could live inside this place.

Dalloway Terrace Patio

After brunch, we headed over to Notting Hill to check out Portobello Market. The streets to this place were super crowded, as expected, and is more of a international food and souvenir market. Worth seeing, though! 
In typical Ryan and Jenna fashion, we walked the whole market, then stopped for a drink, where I discovered my new favorite day time drink: the Aperol Spritz. 

It's a Northern Italian drink, go figure since all my favorite things are from Italy. Including my husband.
It's a bitter orange liquor mixed with prosecco and a bit of soda water, garnished with an orange slice. Will basically be my day drink of choice for eternity. 

Notting Hill is a high tourist attraction not only for Portobello but also for its colorful houses and pretty streets.

We bounced from one market to the next and headed to Borough Market, which was definitely one of the highlights of the weekend. When you go, go hungry. The market is full of local food and drink, from meats, to cheese, fresh fruits and veggies, seafood, and lots of prosecco. You'll have to take my word on it because I failed to snap images of the food - I was too busy drooling over it. The market also has some art floating around.

European Bucket List: Wander London's Borough Market ✔️

After a solid day of walking, eating and drinking, we ended with a stroll along the river to see Tower Bridge. Can't wait to explore the more unknown gems of this city over the next couple of years!

Behind the lens moments
1. I heavily rely on Ryan's navigation skills when traveling. I'm the idealist, in that I suggest where to go, what to see, and where to stay. He's the logistics guy: how much we can see in a day, how to get there, how much it is, etc. I forget that he, too, is learning how to navigate a new country. He underestimated the walking time to Borough Market, and ya girl was hangry thus cranky. We had to work through our miscommunications, and how best to address our expectations.
2. Portobello Market's crowds were overwhelming, which is something you just have to accept when traveling a popular city during tourism season!
3. People do not use Yelp and rarely TripAdvisor over here, so in many cases we were stuck on a bench trying to find a place to eat that wasn't super touristy or overpriced. We found that Pinterest was a good solution to that issue, and we hope to get to know this city well enough to discover those places for ourselves.
 

WHERE TO NEXT?

Xx Jenna

Intro

Amidst this crazy busy overseas move and trying to find a suitable house in Cambridge, Ryan and I have found time to make a European Bucket List for the 3 years we'll be spending here. This of course prompted me to start the travel blog I've been mentally picturing for quite some time now, so I'm excited to finally start sharing my perspective as we travel both well-known and more unknown places!

Before I dive in to documenting, I wanted to tell you a bit about how I want to format my travel blog. There's a prevalent argument that social media - especially in the realm of travel - only shows a person's highlight reel, therefore it's not real (see what I did there). I agree most people show the highlights, but that doesn't mean what they see, what they captured, and what they felt in that moment, isn't real. I will always post aesthetic photos that appeal to the eye because I think it's important to showcase a place's most redeeming qualities; every town, city, and country has something that's uniquely beautiful about it, even the most unassuming places. When others showcased the attractive aspects of a location, it actually helped motivated me leave my comfort zone, see & experience that part of the world for myself, and offer my perspective on that place. That's what I hope to inspire others to do. 

With that being said...

Travel is not always pretty. We forget that when we only look at photos. This blog is to close that gap between what you see versus what really went down in the process. So, In every travel blog post, I will include some "Behind the Scenes" (that's what I'm going to call it until I come up with a less-lame name) bullet points on the not-so-pretty, hilarious, frustrating, disappointing or tiring parts of the journey. This is to have a realistic expectation on travel, because a lot of it is stressful: getting lost, extra costs you weren't planning on, getting caught in a sea of annoying tourists, feeling sick after a bad, over-priced meal, arguing with your spouse or travel partner etc. 

But travel is never not worth it. Even if I had a bad time somewhere for whatever reason, I experienced that place and learned something in the process. So to Ryan and I, travel is never a waste of money.

*Each post will also include a bucket list item that we checked off during that trip! 

I hope this blog offers an attractive but real perspective on traveling Europe and beyond, and inspires you to get out there and create in your own way. Stay tuned, lads!

Xx